Can we dress well without harming the planet? SU researcher unpacks sustainable fashion

Fashion is about more than just clothing – it's a reflection of society, a mirror of our identity, and a snapshot of the times we live in. When it comes to sustainable fashion, we have to recognise that, in many ways, it is a contradiction:

Fashion as an industry relies on constant change and consumption. It is possible to produce garments with minimal environmental impact throughout the production chain, but if those garments aren't seen as fashionable and end up unused, the resources spent making them are still wasted", says Malin Wennberg, a doctoral student in marketing at Stockholm Business School, specialising in the concept of sustainable fashion.

Malin Wennberg started sewing her own clothes at just five years old. That early spark grew into a career spanning various corners of the fashion world. She has worked with global brands like Marc Jacobs in New York, in fashion PR in Copenhagen, and was part of the management team at Mistra Future Fashion, the world’s largest research programme on sustainable fashion at the time. She has also served as an advisor on textile issues for both government bodies and the private sector in Sweden.

Today, she is a researcher at Stockholm University, focusing on how society perceives sustainable fashion and how these perceptions influence the market and shape our consumption behaviors.

From chemicals to technical solutions

"The concept of sustainable fashion is constantly evolving, Back in the 1990s, the Swedish debate was largely focused on chemicals in clothing - particularly in underwear, while in the 2000s, the conversation shifted and second-hand fashion began to lose its stigma. It was no longer seen as something to be ashamed of, but rebranded as vintage - a term that helped reframe used clothing in a more positive light", remembers Wennberg.

Today, the focus has moved toward circularity and technological innovation. In 2020, the European Commission adopted the Green Deal, setting a goal for EU member states to become climate neutral by 2050 through the development of a circular economy.

For the fashion industry, this means new business models built around circularity, encouraging reuse, and embracing the sharing economy, where consumers buy, sell, and trade clothing via digital platforms", Malin Wennberg explains.

Fast fashion and consumerism

Fashion is a clear example of irrational consumption: we buy garments for emotional reasons, influenced by trends and algorithms. Fast fashion giants such as Shein and Temu are competing for market dominance by producing massive volumes of low-cost clothing often at the expense of the environment, through heavy chemical use, high emissions, and poor working conditions. At the same time, social media is accelerating consumerism.

While is often seen as a sustainable alternative, second-hand fashion too is shaped by trends and market demand.

Items that don’t sell in first-hand stores typically don’t sell on the second-hand market either. As a result, some second-hand shops only accept garments that are less than two years old. In some cases, you can even find items with the original hangtags still attached. So, if we’re buying almost-new clothes just to justify continued consumption, the sustainability benefit is essentially lost", explains Wennberg.

New research even suggests that shopping second-hand can lead to increased consumption, due to lower prices -under the belief that it’s a 'one-time opportunity' and the sense of urgency – knowing that there's only one of an item in stock.

However, Wennberg explains, there is still potential for more sustainable consumption when it comes to second-hand shopping: "If, at the end of the day, you're replacing what would have been a purchase of something newly produced with a second-hand item, especially if it's something you truly love and need, then circular business models can play a role in the solution. The key is that the overall level of newly produced and consumed clothing must decrease". 

Consume sustainably without giving up on fashion

We are currently using more of the planet's resources than is compatible with the next generation being able to continue growing cotton, for example. We have created an unsustainable system, from the raw materials used to make textile fibres to the fossil fuels used to power the factories.

But there are ways to consume more sustainably without completely giving up on fashion:

• Shop consciously. Think before you buy - do you really need this garment and will you use it?

• Buy second-hand. Use what is already on the market to ultimately reduce the demand for producing more new items. 

• Repair and reuse. Extend the life of your clothes by repairing and caring for them.

• Focus on quality. Choose timeless garments in durable materials that will last a long time.

Even though the need to consume less is clear, Malin Wennberg is careful not to place the burden solely on individual consumers, but also on the companies, which she believes that must take greater responsibility and stop fueling overconsumption.

Companies know exactly what they're doing. They create campaigns like 'buy three, get one free' and offer free shipping on large orders. As long as success is measured by increased sales, it's hard to genuinely claim that you're working toward sustainability. Fast fashion, in its current form, is simply not sustainable", says Malin Wennberg.

Better rules to solve the problem

Political rules and regulations are also needed for solving these problems. From January 1, 2025, all EU countries had to start sorting and collecting textile waste separately. This is part of the EU’s plan to cut down on waste and encourage more recycling. In the coming years, a new rule called producer responsibility will also be introduced. This means that anyone who sells clothes or other textiles in the EU will be responsible for the entire life of the product, from production to disposal.

The idea is to encourage companies to make clothes that last longer and are easier to recycle. Influencers also have to follow new rules. They must clearly say when a post is sponsored or part of a paid collaboration. To create lasting change, these issues need to be addressed from multiple angles, including stronger regulations, more responsible business strategies, and more conscious consumer habits.

There is no single solution. But by bringing together research, policy, and corporate responsibility, we can move toward a more sustainable fashion industry. Change begins with knowledge, and it’s time we start taking that knowledge seriously", concludes Malin Wennberg.